Subtle background lighting and a controlable ambient temperature
can have a real positive effect, bound to greatly enhance the human spirit. The electric suite is not only instant but easily installed with the minimum of disruption.    

These can be placed against any wall, only requiring a plug socket within reach of the cable. The range of suites available from the gb Mantels collection do not include an electric fire. This allows you the freedom to choose your style preference from a particular manufacturer, or even to use your existing freestanding or inset fire.

A standard fire opening is provided which will accomodate the majority of electric fires now available with an inset depth of just 3″/75mm.  The gb Mantels range of suites are manufactured from the finest hardwood veneers and supplied with integral downlights operated by a subtly placed on/off switch.

Such is the versatile nature of these electric suites that if you wish to change the furniture positions within a room, the fireplace can also be easily moved to suit. Even room to room or should you move home at any time, the fireplace suite can be taken with you. Again an ideal solution should space be at a premium.

There are five striking mantel finishes available Clear Oak, Mango, Olde England White, White Stone or Beige Stone to cater for every taste. Flexible colour choices of the back panel and hearth allow either one colour throughout the suite, or you can select contrasting colours to suit. We think you will agree, you can’t get any more versatile than that.

GB Mantels consistently produce state of the art timber fireplace surrounds manufactured entirely in South Yorkshire. The latest technology combined with age old experience of skilled craftsmen create the most versatile ranges of individually handmade wooden mantelpieces available today.

Fireplace Mega Deals offers the GB Mantels range from classic to contemporary together with the distinctly ultramodern.  We offer these surrounds safe in the knowledge that your fireplace has been crafted from the finest natural materials and treated with absolute tender loving care.

Timbers sourced include European Oak known as the king of woods due to its unique character and strength. Also Pine sourced from the forests of North America (Southern Yellow Pine) is very dense and hard wearing also possessing  striking decorative knots.

gb Mantels Eden Fire Surround in Solid European Oak 

Due to the nature of natural materials, it is common for surrounds to vary in colour due to natural shading and wood grains. Stunning natural materials provide individuality as no two surrounds will ever be identical. Solid and veneered woods are subject to grain differences, knots and blemishes which are all natural occurrences.

This almost indescribable ’feeling’ is what makes us all individual and is governed by the human senses of  being either Visual, Auditory or Kinesthetic. It explains why one person instantly falls in love with something and another  absolutely hates it.  We experienced this scenario several times over the 20 years whilst operating our fireplace showroom. To the degree that even a compromise could not be reached when a couple were choosing say a fireplace or even a fire.  However, this fascinating piece of psychology can be researched elsewhere.

The reason I mention this is that I could imagine the appeal of one against the other of two identical fireplace package options manufactured by a leading UK manufacturer gb Mantels.The two surrounds appear surprisingly unrecognisable when shown in completely different finishes.  Also with a change of  micrograin marble or black granite hearth and back panel along with the style of fire.

Welland shown in Tudor Oak with Black Oak Inlay

 

 

 

Some will be indifferent to one of the finishes, maybe even dislike one and find the other striking. It’s a fair bet that not everybody will prefer the same one, even within the same family.

 

It has been said that “it’s a good job we don’t all like the same things” as there would then be no choice. It is therefore choice that abounds when choosing the focal point for any living space. This undeniably has to be the fireplace and although an initial overall look may not be to your particular taste, it is worth considering the available options.

Many designs being contemporary, traditional or some that even suit both interior styles. Colour finishes, natural grains or textures, lighting, the fire fuel effects and fascias can transform a living room into very desirable ‘chic’. With the addition of a matching mirror which is now available also by gb Mantels, the designer look is complete.

Each individual taste can be catered for … but YOU have to love it and there is plenty to love. Why not take a look at our fireplace packages and also see the affordable mega deals for yourself.

When entering a living room with a free standing electric stove instantly a cosy warm ambiance is created. During winter months many of us long to arrive home, sit down comfortably in front of a fire and relax.

Radiators are great for generating a desired ambient temperature. However have you ever seen anybody drawing their chair closer to sit in front of a radiator. It would surely be similar to watching paint dry.

It is fire that has satisfied man’s desire. Dancing flames provide a unique visual experience. This can be simply provided even without heat from an electric stove. Just the flame effect glow of the electric stove gives a sense of warmth. Thanks to the latest design improvements the fire effect is very realistic.

The running costs of the fire effect only are minimal for electric stoves. When the heater is required a low and high setting is generally available. Heat is provided by means of a fan heater which convects heat into the room. Electrical heating is 100% efficient, meaning there is no loss of heat from the room. Unlike other forms of fuel that need to be burnt and require a flue or chimney. A selected room temperature can also be maintained by the thermostatic control setting.

Dimplex electric stoves offer a range of accessories. Slate effect hearth slabs on which to stand the stove upon to add realism and avoid the need for a fire surround. Easy fit stove pipes and alternative fuel beds.

A major advantage of the freestanding fire or stove is the ease of installation, requiring only a domestic electrical socket. With no regulations or restrictions these are ideal for any room in the house including conservatories. Some Manor electric stoves have a fan only operation for use on those hot summer days. Also the low maintenance required together with the fact that an electric stove will last considerably longer when compared to a gas boiler.

The latest generation of Opti-Myst flame and smoke effects from Dimplex have to be seen to be believed for the ultimate solid fuel burning realism effect.

When you pay too much you lose a little money, that is all.

When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing you bought it to do.

The common law of business balance prohibits saving a little and getting a lot. It can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it’s well to add something for the risk you run.

And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better.

QUALITY……….

There is hardly anything in the world today that some man can’t make just a little worse and sell just a little cheaper, and the people who buy on price alone are this man’s lawful prey.

Now the foundation is in place you can build the body of a marble or granite fireplace having a wooden surround (as in a fireplace package).  So, what’s next?  Well, if it is to be an inset fire there will be a small drop directly behind the hearth that will need filling and levelling to the same level of the hearth. Some of the mortar mix that is left over from bedding the hearth will do this. Roughly level out the mortar with a trowel and then have a length of smooth straight wood (similar to a spirit level) available. Be careful don’t use anything that could leave scratches on the surface of marble. Place the straight edge against the hearth and into the opening and then in small forwards and backward movements, slowly move from one side to the other across the mortar area. This will then leave a level continuation of the hearth providing a floor for the fire to sit on

Fine, you are now ready to fit the back panel section.

Measure the width of the panel and mark the centre on the top edge. This will line up with the fireplace centre line on the wall. With a trowel cover the back of the panel with ‘blobs’ of tile adhesive (not the whole of the surface).  It should resemble the look of snow balls that have been thrown and stuck to it, with gaps in between each one of approx 75mm. Depth of the blobs will be approx 10-15mm at the deepest point. Now stand the back panel on the hearth and gently push the back panel against the wall so that the centre lines up with the centre line. You should feel the adhesive spread slightly and begin to grip. The panel should now be sat further off the wall than its final resting position, measuring approx 30-35mm from the wall.

Here’s the secret to achieving a perfectly flush fit with the back panel against the surround. This is achieved by using the surround itself when lifted onto the hearth to push back the panel into position. When all the back edges of the surround touch the wall and will not move any further back, this is exactly where the back panel needs to finally sit. It’s better if two persons are available to do this to check all back edges are back against the wall at the same time. Take the surround off the hearth now and fill the gap around the whole perimeter of the panel with tile adhesive and smooth off. The same needs to be done around the cut-out in the back panel. Wipe off any excess that is on the surface and  ”hey presto” it’s time for a brew!

Question: Hey!  Go on then , … “ What if I want an inset fire and only have a flat wall or a shallow pre-cast flue”?

O.K.  …  The majority of wooden surrounds will have a 25mm rebate which allows for the 20mm thickness of the back panel to be accommodated within the surround. In addition a removable rebate section (known as an adjustable rebate) that can be unscrewed to allow for a rebate of 75mm if required. The 25mm rebate would be used for a fireplace installation against a chimney breast where the depth required for an inset fire would be sufficient, or against a flat wall for an outset/ freestanding fire. In the case of an inset fire with a depth of let’s say 170mm and intended for fitting into a pre-cast flue (with a restricted depth e.g. 100mm) the larger 75mm rebate would be required. Thus, allowing for a deeper fire to be used by bringing the back panel to the front of the surround rebate. The fire depth then is partly sat within the fireplace not just the flue.

Question: “On Yeah!” .. “I did that and now the back panel is so far away from the wall it can’t be supported”

Well spotted. So you can now see that the method of installing the body of the fireplace will depend on the intended fire/flue depth. Everyone knows you can’t hide a 10ft pole in a 6ft hole. So, the back panel will need a frame for it to be fitted against.

When a frame is required for the back panel you will need some lengths of approx 50mm x 50-80mm rough sawn timber for this. The marble or granite back panel is normally 20mm thick and you need to fill the 75mm rebate.  Caution; The plastered wall you are fitting against will almost certainly not be perfectly flat across the whole fireplace area. In my experience the best walls come somewhere close, others have a bow, dip or worse.  These fluctuations have to be taken into account if the surround is to fit as tightly as possible to the wall when the job is completed.  To compensate you therefore need to leave space for a flexible bed of tile adhesive.

To simplify this then, there is the thickness of the back panel 20mm plus a timber frame let’s say 50mm giving a total of 70mm. This provides for a 5mm tolerance gap within the 75mm rebate. On a problem uneven wall, a plaster skim is possibly required to improve the surface as no fireplace material bends to fit the wall.

The frame dimensions are the same as that of the back panel and containing as many support pieces to support the panel and importantly the fire cut-out. This will be dependent on the width of timber used (if 50mm wide, more struts than if 80mm wide). The frame is measured against the centre line then fixed to the wall with 75mm screws. The tile adhesive is then applied to the whole of the timber rather than to the back panel. If a gas fire is to be fitted, it is necessary to clad the timber along all three surfaces of the cut-out with a non combustible fire board. Caution;  Remember to allow for the thickness of this board when constructing the frame so that the fire opening size is maintained .

All measurements given are as a general guide and should be checked for relevancy.

O.K. then, firstly you need to have the means of mixing approx 3 buckets of mortar in which to lay a standard 54×15 inch hearth. The mixture should be 4-5 parts soft sand (building sand) to 1 part portland cement.

Hold On! … A thought before you mix the mortar.  The following information is rather important and could save a potential disaster once a limestone hearth has been bedded.

The cement used for marble fireplaces or granite hearths as described above is ideal. Not so for a limestone fireplace though. If you are installing a limestone fireplace then you would need to source a bag of ‘Snowcrete’ a white portland cement. The specific requirements when working with a Portuguese limestone fireplace will be covered later.

To continue, a small amount of mortar additive ‘plasticiser’ will help to make the mix easier to work with. This can be added together with the water. Caution; Not too much water – the consistency needs to be soft but firm. Should the mortar be sloppy, then this will be dispelled from underneath rather than support the hearth. At this stage it is worth you quickly checking how level the floor is ‘side to side’ as well as ‘back to front’. Empty the mortar onto the floor area of the hearths footprint allowing approx 50mm overlap all round. Providing the floor is not too far off being level, spread the mortar out evenly or otherwise adjust for a slightly thicker bed at the lower end to compensate. Beware!  However much the floor slopes, the hearth is the foundation stone and must be level in both planes.

Creating a ripple effect with your trowel in the mortar at this stage will allow you to level and manipulate the hearth into position. The appearance that you are after will be that similar to a stormy sea, certainly not a mill pond. The depth of mortar will be approx 80-90mm high.

The markings you made on the wall in the preparation stage will show you the exact position the hearth needs to be when bedded onto the mortar. Take hold of the hearth (this is actually easier with two people) and place onto the mortar roughly in the final resting place. Now take a minute or two to stand back and see how the hearth is sitting on the mortar bed. Phew! A well earned cup of tea is not a bad idea at this stage!

Ideally the hearth will be sitting let’s say, 25mm or so, off the floor – higher than it needs to be (if not then you have not put enough mortar down and will have to lift it again to add some more). Next, whilst laying a spirit level onto the hearth, firmly pat down with the palms of your hands until the hearth is level. It should now feel as though the mortar has filled up the hearths void. Check the level back to front and also that (for most requirements) the mortar bed underneath the hearth is approximately 10mm. Now check that it is sitting inside the lines on the wall markings.

Scrape as much mortar away from around the fireplace hearth and then, here is a secret ….

With the end of your  forefinger run along the mortar bed from one end to the other, then from front to back at both sides. This should leave a lovely smooth slightly concave professionally finished edge to the bed. With the edge of a trowel scrap away any remaining mortar that is left. Finally clean off all the mortar that has touched the hearth with a damp cloth before it dries on.

Question: Why do I need to do all this? Why can’t the hearth just sit on the floor?

Well, for three main reasons. The hearth now is level, it is not hollow anymore as the mortar has packed up inside and fully supported it and finally you will benefit from seeing all the hearth once the thickness of the underlay and carpet have been fitted. You will not see the 10mm bed underneath though.

If a marble hearth is not bedded in this way it is very likely to crack if say somebody was to stand on it. In my experience this is usually at Christmas when the decorations go up above the fireplace. You just need to step on the hearth to reach. CRACK!!  Oh dear……

With regard to a limestone fireplace mentioned earlier. Limestone is a softer more absorbent natural material, therefore anything that it touches without protection will leave a stain. Imagine the horror when the colour is absorbed from the mortar and a wavy stain mark is in evidence (not immediately) but several hours after fitting which occurs whilst the mortar is setting. To avoid this it is advisable to coat the whole of the underneath surface of the hearth that will be in contact with the mortar. A barrier such as diluted PVA glue using a paint brush and two thin coats should be sufficient. Use light coloured sand and white cement (as mentioned above) removing all traces from unprotected areas as soon as possible with a wet cloth.

Imagine your fireplace installed, you rest in front to admire your efforts and then you realise the fire sits slightly to one side, or say, the hearth is not centred or maybe not quite level.  It’s only maybe a centimetre or so (although I have seen much worse) – you then ask yourself  … will anybody notice. You just have and you will know something is not quite right possibly every single time you enter that room. My experience tells me that this seems acceptable to some, “bang it in – jobs a good un”.  If you would like to do a job to be proud of, you may like to read on and get some information which will perhaps avoid some of the costly pitfalls.

O.K.  … This assumes that you have carefully chosen your intended fire, decided on the look that appeals to your taste from a wide selection of fireplaces. Also, that all the components are entirely suitable for their intended use. This is particularly important with regard to solid fuel fires.

Well done!  …  A major stumbling block overcome.

Let’s get started then.   This will require the decision maker in the family – You know who this is!

Where in the room is the fireplace to be situated?

At this stage I should flag up a major note of caution!!!   Regulations in force regarding solid fuel fires and all gas fires exist for your safety.  These are enforceable with severe consequences against any individual who is not wholly competent regarding installation.  A registered Hetas installer  in the case of a solid fuel appliance or Gas Safe engineer should be consulted to ensure all regulations are met (for example: balanced flue/fan flue gas fires, proximity to opening windows, walls, distance to a fence etc.,).

If a chimney breast exists (internal or external) you will probably be restricted with regard to where the fireplace can be sited. For instance, if a fire is to be inset into the chimney breast then this will be dictated by the builder’s fire opening.  When against a flat outside wall without a flue and a balanced flue gas fire or fan flue gas fire is to be fitted, bear in mind both of these have an external flue projection. Take a walk outside the room and check that a soil pipe or other fittings are not going to prevent installing such a fire in the desired area, particularly if alongside a driveway.  Again you should have this information confirmed when consulting a registered installer. The accessibility of a gas connection should one not already exist can also be established in the case of a gas fire.

Hey!  Question:  “What if my property has a pre-cast flue”  I hear some saying!   …

Well, you are likely to be restricted considerably more than having a chimney breast. The dimensions of the flue opening would dictate the size of the fire this type of flue would accommodate. These vary greatly, some are narrower and also some deeper than others. A modern property may well have the purpose built large fire opening which will take most inset gas fires. On the other hand, some older properties will have been built intending only to use this type of flue with an outset gas fire. The centre of the fire opening has also to be the centre of the fireplace if using the available inset width and depth.  Should you not require the gas flue as an electric fire is to be used, then ignore the flue and position your fireplace where desired.

I have deviated slightly from the installation of the fireplace preparation, but you can no doubt appreciate that the type of intended fire and/or if the flue needs to be in use will determine the positioning of the fireplace.   O.K. that’s enough about flues and fires, Phew!

Now , find your pencil and tape measure it’s time the centre line is drawn. Every measurement is taken from the centre line. If you have decided on the centre of the room, then a vertical line using a builder’s level can be drawn from the floor  to somewhere above the height of the finished fireplace. If against a chimney breast then find the exact centre and do likewise. Next  establish the width of the fire (If to be inset). The majority of fires fit into a standard ‘cut-out’ in the back panel of the fireplace being 40-42cm, wide 56-57cm high. Two vertical lines 21cm each side of the centre line can now be drawn. The horizontal line will depend on how high the hearth stands which needs to be added to the 57cm high cut-out. A standard hearth is approx 6-7cm but allow for a mortar bed (more on this to follow) so you would make the line at approx 8cm plus 57cm = 65cm from the floor. You will now have the outline of where the fire will sit through the back panel. Ideally the opening will mirror these dimensions and project to the back of the flue at this size or as close as possible. If the opening is smaller, then some alterations have to be made otherwise the fire will not fit. If the opening is too large then the back panel will not be supported sufficiently and there would be a risk of the marble cracking from the heat.

The next step is to mark out the hearth, the foundation stone of the fireplace and care must be taken to get this step right. Mark the wall from the centre line (for a standard size hearth 1370cmm/54”) 685mm each side of the centre line. If there should be any floor coverings such as thermo-plastic tiles on a solid floor it is advisable to remove these in the area the hearth will sit down onto. Otherwise when you lay the mortar for the hearth the tiles will possibly lift . It is better to allow the mortar to adhere directly onto a solid concrete floor. All lumps and bumps left from the removal of a previous installation need to be taken off as a bump could prevent you from levelling the hearth  both ‘side to side’ and ‘back to front’.

Hey, wait!  Another question:  “I’m told my property has a floating floor, what now?”

O.K. without getting too technical in regard to building techniques, a floating floor is found in modern properties as a means of insulation.  The floor is suspended and then a layer of polystyrene sheet approx 5-7cm thick is laid onto the sub-floor. Sheets of chipboard then form the surface of the floor. I would suggest that this is not a good surface in which to install a heavy fireplace onto. The area where the hearth is to sit should be marked out and the chipboard and insulation removed down to the sub-floor. This is easily done, but bear in mind that gas or central heating pipes can be in this area so don’t cut deeper than the thickness of the chipboard. Once the chipboard is removed the insulation can easily be cut with a hand held blade and removed safely. Next you will need to mix a sharp sand and cement mix [almost dry, 5 parts sand to 1 cement] and level off to the existing floor height. This will give you a solid surface as with a solid floor which will eliminate problems arising in future.

Earlier I mentioned that an allowance should be made for a mortar bed under the hearth. This will depend on the floor covering preferred once the fireplace is installed. If carpet and underlay then allowing for this thickness under the hearth will result in being able to see the full height of the hearth once the carpet is fitted.

This article is provided as a guide only and all dimensions given should be checked against the relevant component sizes being installed.

Hole-in-the-wall Gas Fires

As the name suggests these gas fires are inset into an existing chimney or flue but generally without  the need for a  hearth and / or fireplace as situated higher from the floor on the chimney breast wall.  Some of the main advantages of this type of gas fire is their inset nature can create / save more space in the room.  Saving space and taking up a small area of the wall can be extremely attractive benefits in smaller rooms or where minimalist or contemporary style is important. Hole-in-the-wall gas fires typically offer a simple, clean and very modern look, and are available with a wide range of decorative frames including stainless steel or mirror frames, glass or open fronted, and incorporating popular natural finishes such as limestone.  These fires can also incorporate a variety of decorative fuel effects including coal, and pebbles.

Inset gas Fires

This term refers to gas fires which are inset into existing fireplace areas in the home and as such they can closely resemble but take the place of solid fuel fires, or replace an existing older inset gas or electric fire.  Inset gas fires can have all the traditional charm and features of a solid fuel fire.  For example they can incorporate a grate, fire front and trims in a variety of materials and finishes, and can have a variety of fuel bed options. Flame effects and flame pictures can be very realistic, and the fires can be incorporated with a wide range of traditional fireplaces e.g. in marble, granite and limestone or a combination with a wooden surround.

Contemporary inset gas fires have all the clean lines and simplicity and sophistication of the modern hole-in-the wall fires, but in a traditional position in the room.

Outset Gas Fires

Outset gas fires can be installed in the chimney / flue area, but extend outwards into the room, often incorporating a canopy at the top.  The units themselves look somewhere between small stoves and more traditional styles of gas fires.  Again these fires can be finished with a variety of fireplace. They are typically very safe and provide exceptional heat output.

Flueless Gas Fires

Flueless gas fires can be installed anywhere in the home where there is a nearby gas supply i.e. they don’t need to be near a chimney or flue.  They are very easy to install, and apart from the attachment to the gas supply, they often just need 4 screws to hang them onto a wall.  These fires are 100% efficient because there is no heat loss through chimneys or flues and as such they heat rooms very quickly and effectively.  Many new homes and flats are built without traditional chimneys and flues, so flueless gas fires can be particularly well suited to this situation.  Flueless gas fires are particularly safe not just because they don’t produce anything like the levels of hazardous gasses and smoke that burning solid fuel does, but also because they have reliable and durable catalytic converters.  This means that whatever carbon monoxide may be produced is immediately converted into harmless gasses and vapours (in a normal air dilution) e.g. carbon dioxide and water vapour.

Power Flues

Power flues can give gas fires exceptional heating ability and levels of safety.  This is because they use a fan which works in 2 ways.  Not only does it push the warm air into the room, but at the same time it links up to an extractor fan on the outside wall to expel any gasses produced in the burning process.

Balanced Flue

Balanced flue gas fires have a sealed glass front and a flue that draws air from the outside when it’s need to create the heat, and expels it back out through another section of the flue.  This provides a very effective, efficient and safe heating mechanism.

Modern gas fires therefore provide the home owner with a great deal of choice whether they have an existing chimney or flue, or not.  Gas fires have never provided so much flexibility, efficiency and safety as they do today.

 The benefits of electric fires per se as opposed to other domestic heating methods are of course part and package of an electric suite.  An electric suite is an entire electric heating solution which includes the electric fire itself along with (depending on the particular suite) the trim, surround, fuel effects, hearth,  remote control etc. The electric suite therefore comprises everything you need to install and run an attractive and efficient electric fire virtually anywhere in the home.

gb Mantels California Suite for choice of Electric Fire

 

The alternative for setting up a fireplace for an electric fire is to buy and install different components separately e.g. the Surround, Hearth and Back Panel.  This would undoubtedly be the more costly method all things considered.

Unlike solid fuel fires or gas fires, electric fires don’t actually burn any fuel to produce heat.  This means that they are a much safer form of heating.  For example, electric fires don’t produce poisonous gasses associated with burning fuel e.g. carbon monoxide.  Also, unlike a solid fuel fire, an electric fire can be instantly switched off when it’s not needed, and therefore there is no risk of leaving a fire unattended or of burning fragments from the fire being propelled into the room.  Although gas fires are safer and more controllable in operation than solid fuel fires, they still require fitting by a qualified ‘Gas Safe’ fitter to a source of piped in gas.  Electric fires simply need an electric power source such as a plug socket. Although modern gas fires are highly efficient and cost effective ways of heating the home, modern electric fires are 100% efficient.  This means that all the valuable heat energy produced is propelled into the room rather than being lost up a chimney as with solid fuel fires. Although electricity is used as a power source, the high efficiency and controllability means that electric fires are an environmentally friendly option.

Since modern electric fires don’t burn any fuel there’s no need for them to be installed near a chimney or flue. This gives much greater flexibility in where they can be installed and used i.e. they can be used in dwellings where there is no chimney or where there are problems with the chimney or flue, and there is complete flexibility within any home as to where they actually sited.

Electric Suite Options                                                                                

Electric suites can be free standing or wall mounted.  Installation of an electric suite therefore usually only requires a flat wall and the necessary simple bracket or fastening system. Assembling and installing the suite therefore is likely to take approximately one hour. The simple fastenings, or the free standing electric suites means that they can be taken with you e.g. if moving house.

Flamerite Fires Lucca Suite

 

The choice and style of electric suites is wide and varied. For example, smaller wall mounted suites are available in contemporary styles incorporating glass and mirrored panels.  These are fantastically compatible with modern flats or smaller rooms, and can be stunning focal point features as well as being an efficient and cost effective heat source.  Electric suites often have hidden / concealed heat technology so the suite maintains its aesthetic good looks.  Switchable fuel flicker effects and the ability to run the flame effect independently of the heater mean that visual and atmospheric benefits can be enjoyed all year round.  Electric suites often incorporate fires which can be operated by a simple remote control (which often includes a dimmer), so getting the temperature and effect just right in the room is as easy as changing the television channel. The materials and the match of surrounds, fires, and hearths in electric suite packages means that there’s one to suite virtually any home design theme.  Wood, marble or stone effect surrounds, or more contemporary finishes are all available with electric suites, which means that completing stylish and practical interior design changes and makeovers in the home are easier and less expensive than ever before.

Electric suites not only stay looking good for a long time, but there are none of the maintenance worries associated with other fuel sources.  For example, solid fuel fires require regular chimney sweeping, flue inspection and chimney/flue maintenance, and gas fires ideally require regular annual servicing.

Choosing an electric suite therefore provides a number of attractive benefits and the promise of affordable, stylish and safe warmth for many winters to come.